We were now into the second half of our trip when we woke up to a glassy Whitewater Lake. Whitewater Lake is very large and is known for being windy and large waves. We had intended to wake early and cross the lake before the wind might pick up. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find it so calm. We had also planned to safely hug the coastline but with no breeze whatsoever we just paddled a straight line across the lake. We thoroughly enjoyed the calm paddle and could we see no one else for miles!
We left Whitewater Lake and entered the Grayson River which flows into the north end of the lake and so we would be paddling upstream again. The Grayson is not a fast moving river but by now we had learned a few things about Wabakimi. Rocks seemed to pop up anywhere … even in the middle of the lake or river. The Grayson River was not that deep and we really had to pay close attention to any rocks or boulders that might pop up. Around 11:30 am we located a noted fishing hot spot but it was midday, so no luck. We found a shady spot on shore and made avocado and cheese wraps for a leisurely lunch before continuing on.
Since we were traveling upstream, any rapids or swift water would need to be portaged around on trail or the canoe “lined” through the rough water. In preparation for this trip we had made two “throw bags” each with a 50 foot floating rope to help us guide the canoe either upstream or downstream.
There is an art to lining a canoe through swift water and though we were beginners we learned fast. It requires good communication and stable footing … if you can find it. The bow of the canoe must be pointed upstream and the current must not be allowed to catch the side of the canoe or it may be capsized. A canoe pinned against a rock may be damaged or unrecoverable. The canoe can be steered through the current with a coordinated tightening and slacking of the ropes.
After a couple more portages, we found ourselves in an area which had been burned some years ago. There were no large trees, just burned tree skeletons, low bushes and saplings. These areas have a unique beauty in that you are witness the rebirth of the forest and the cycle of life. Another advantage of a recently burned area is the abundance of blueberries! We had thought that blueberry season would be over, but we had never seen so many blueberries as on these trails. Our portages took longer than they should because we kept stopping and eating these delicious berries!
In Wabakimi, as in the Boundary Waters or Quetico, the portage trails are not marked, and since Wabakimi is not well traveled, some of these trails can be difficult to find. At the end of one of the portages we found some old skeletal remains of a moose – vertebrae, leg bone, and mandible.
By late afternoon we found a beautiful campsite on the south arm of Grayson Lake. We did our camp chores in order of importance – shelter, firewood and food and water and we fell into our usual routines and duties. Jeff sets up the shelter tarp then gathers firewood and starts a fire. Ellen sets up the tent and makes dinner. We tried catching walleye for dinner, but no luck, so pizza night again! After dinner we relaxed by the fire, journaled and watching the sunset. Another great day on the water.
Journeys with Jeff and Ellen 